A City of Mouthwatering Food Markets

June 2007

The marché as it closes, at the lower end of the rue Mouffetard. One of the major reasons why Paris may be the world’s most irresistible city is that it has the most mouth-watering food stores and open-air markets to be found anywhere. Whether you want to have a picnic of simple, whole-grain bread and cheese made from raw milk, or feast on such fine takeout fare as choucroute garnie and paella, the food markets of Paris have it all, and then some.

One of the best ways to discover what it feels like to be a Parisian is to rent an apartment so you can shop the city’s many outdoor food markets, which are open year-round and number more than 35 among the city’s 20 arrondissements. Most arrondissements boast at least two temporary open-air markets that are set up twice a week, and several districts feature open-air markets that are open daily except for Mondays.

Not only do these markets feature a continuity among sellers of meat, fish, produce, fruits, vegetables and flowers, but many of the merchants know their customers over several generations. Even if I don’t know the merchants by name, my heart always gladdens to see their ruddy faces (often red from the cold, damp Parisian weather) and their hard-working hands, that have often been picking the produce that they are selling that very same day.

Be sure to take note of the food products from different regions – be they marennes oysters from Brittany, patés and sausages from Auvergne, and strudels and applecakes from Alsace. As France is a nation of immigrants, don’t be surprised to find olives from Greece, Portuguese bread and olive oil, and different kinds of condiments for couscous from Algeria and Tunisia.

The changing seasons make markets a particular delight: In the fall, you can look forward to fresh walnuts and grapes, as well as a vast array of wild-hand picked mushrooms and mirabelles, small yellow plums from Alsace. In winter you can find Brussels sprouts, chestnuts (marrons), baby tangerines (clémentines) and the queen of French apples, the red and gold reinette. Year-round you can buy carrots, turnips, Swiss chard, leeks and shallots, the latter great for stews and sauces. I also love buying fresh herbs, which do wonders for soup and salads, not to mention such dishes as pot-au-feu, boeuf bourguignon, and poulet chasseur.

Right now, we’re heading into summer – the best time for strawberries (the best are the gariguette from the Périgord and the Loire Valley), not to mention those wonderful melons from Cavaillon, and white and green asparagus. If your French isn’t rusty, be sure to ask the market sellers for tips on how to cook things – or better yet, go with a friend. Cuts of meat do tend to be different, and many of the fish you will see in Paris may not be familiar to you even if they are quite delicious. Above all, don’t buy the first thing you see – take a leisurely stroll around the market, and breathe in the fragrant and tempting smells. Keep your eyes peeled for those merchants with the longest lines of customers – chances are you’ll find the best quality and prices at these stalls.

And don’t pass up the bargains in kitchen implements, soap, and assorted household items, including lingerie and socks. I have been amazed at the selection of pocketbooks, linens and pashminas as well, which just goes to show that the French don’t do all their shopping at the Galeries Lafayette!